Before going to Croatia, I was most looking forward to spending time on the cost, in places like Zadar, Split, and Dubrovnik. However, my friend Lee had spent three weeks in Zagreb in 2015, and insisted it was one of the best places around. Our original itinerary didn’t plan for any time there, so instead of cramming in Belgrade or Sarajevo after Slovenia, I decided to spend four leisurely days in Zagreb. I am so happy I did!

I spent my time in Zagreb before Gareth arrived, and it was the perfect city to do solo. It was small, safe, walkable, and oh my god so cute. I LOVE Zagreb. In an alternative life I never left and am hanging about, still as enthusiastic and in awe as I was when I first arrived. It was my favourite part of Croatia. Perhaps if we’d gone in warmer weather, when swimming was an option, I’d feel differently, but we went in April and Zagreb was the hands down winner.

Where to stay

I stayed at Hostel Chic which was exactly what I needed after being in crazy (bed bug ridden!) hostels for the last week. I’d only recommend Hostel Chic in the right circumstances. Unlike any other hostel I’ve ever stayed in, I was the youngest person there. It seemed to have about a 50/50 mix of people there for a short time, and people there longer term. Each night I planned to leave to find somewhere a bit livelier, but I ended up staying there the whole time. Zagreb is known for its amazing hostel scene, which is definitely worth looking into. But Hostel Chic was quiet, and each bed had its own lamp, plugs, and a half wall, so no one could see anyone else from their beds, and the bit of privacy was so refreshing after nearly two weeks of public sleeping.

Food Recommendations

• Definitely do breakfast at Otto and Frank. I went there two of my four days, and nowhere else compared.
• Eat at one of the places above the market. I had a kebab at PLAC, which is very well reviewed.
• Make sure to try krafne, which are a traditional style donut.
• Dolac market is open daily has fresh fruit and veg, which is a nice snack for a day spent wandering.

Things to do

Zagreb is so beautiful and so walkable. The city isn’t very large and it’s easy to explore. It’s also home to my absolute favourite museum in the world, the Museum of Broken Relationships. I spent hours in there—I wish they would open a place in London so I could go back all the time. It was so interesting and healing in a way, to see all the different experiences people have had. It wasn’t just romantic relationships, but familial, friends, everything that once meant something. A lot were decades in the past and it was like getting to skim the book of someone’s life. I really loved it and could not recommend it more.

I also went to the Museum of Naïve Art, which was smaller, quieter, and fairly inexpensive to visit. The art inside was gorgeous, and I loved getting another tiny taste of Croatian culture.

Be sure to visit St Mark’s Church which is maybe the most vibrant and fun church I’ve ever seen. On the way up I stopped into some really cool art shops, and picked up a hand painted canvas of a statue in the centre of town of Marija Jurić Zagorka, the first female journalist.

Also in Zagreb’s Upper Town is an incredible overlook, with great views of the city, especially the Cathedral of Zagreb. You can order drinks and sit, which I did, spending a few hours reading and writing. It was one of the best days, and I basically repeated it again and again —just changing up where I ate, and adding in a few new hang out spots—Park Zrinjevac, the little café next to the Museum of Broken Relationships, and Ledeni Park. There’s also Dolac Market, a farmers market with fresh produce and some cute souvenirs. Though Zagreb itself was very relaxed, it still felt really vibrant and alive.

I feel awful Gareth missed it, but it just means we have to go back to Croatia—what a not terrible problem to have!