SEATTLE

While I was surprised to be a little underwhelmed with Portland, Seattle was AMAZING. It was everything I thought Portland would be. It was clean and green and walkable and outdoorsy, and really technologically advanced. We stayed at the coolest hotel in Capitol Hill that is also long term housing (I looked it up and it’s over 2,000 a month for just a bedroom with a shared kitchen, otherwise I’d probably still be living there now). We walked basically the entire city and by the time we left we were planning our future return to buy a house in the city. I loved Seattle.

We got in a bit later than planned because of the train delay, but the day was perfect. It was LA weather, with clear blue skies and the city stretching out before us. We pulled in right next to Century Link Field, and I’m not going to lie, my love for Seattle has eased my dislike for the Seahawks (though the Super Bowl outcome probably helped with that as well). It was cool to see the stadium, and man is this town into football. I love it!

We went straight to the Link, which went from the Stadium to Capitol Hill. It was a super quick journey, and the neighborhood was amazing. So many great bars and restaurants. So many great houses. It felt a lot like the east coast, actually.

We stayed at Roy St Commons They gave us codes for the main entrance and our room, and we never had to talk to anyone else (I’m a fan of this, haha), but it still felt homey. We walked around checking out the different dinner options, before picking a random Italian place. Gareth got something delicious and I got a pasta thing and once again Gareth ordered better than me. I honestly need to start just copying his orders exactly. Then we considering doing a comedy show, but instead decided to bar hop. We went to Unicorn, which was pretty excellent. There was a wedding party there at the time, and they ordered every cocktail on the menu. I offered to help carry and they turned me down but gave me a unicorn jizz as a thank you, and that was a strong, sweet, fun drink. We took some terrible photobooth pictures (I’m really bad at photobooths!), and continued wandering around Seattle. The walk back home was really nice, and felt totally safe even though it was pretty late and we weren’t 100% sober. I love how the area felt like one big neighborhood. It felt really liveable.

Seattle, Washington   

We crashed pretty hard because of continued jetlag/the illness that would not end, but this room had a fan, which I have been trained since I was a baby to require for a good night’s sleep (thanks mom!).

We woke up the next morning and the clear blue skies of the first day had become gray clouds that every once in awhile let out a few drops of rain. The place had free homemade apple danishes (or some sort of apple baked good) for breakfast. Again we didn’t see another human, as we stuffed our faces and plotted where to hide my bag for the day. They didn’t have a lockbox but we didn’t want to carry our heavy bags during our hike around the city, so (thinking I was somehow doing us both a favor) I hid my bag in the main room and transported my valuables into Gareth’s bag, which he carried. I don’t know why I thought that was mutually beneficial, but Gareth never pointed out the huge flaw in my logic and quietly waited a few hours until I realized on my own. Oops. Thanks, buddy.

Then we headed out! We stopped at Portage Bay for brunch, where Gareth ate like he gave a damn, and I realized it was mother’s day and called my Momma. Then we walked over to the Center for Wooden Boats, where you can sail free every Sunday! However by the time we got there all the boats were signed up for except a canoe, and we decided that because it was freezing and we had both canoed before (I’ve never been sailing, take away any islander credibility I have right now), so we decided to skip it. That said, what a great way to spend a Sunday. And it’s all volunteer run. I’m a big fan.

From there we wandered to the Space Needle. Fun fact, I am terrified of heights. I honestly really didn’t think this would bother me much, BUT IT REALLY DID. I felt like I could really feel it swaying (though Gareth insists he couldn’t, I’m still sure I felt it!). I also hated that there was a line to get down, meaning I was temporarily trapped. So we walked/ran around the outside viewing area, took some pictures, and headed back down to the gift shop. I’m not usually about gift shops but Gareth and I are starting a magnet collection, and we needed to tick that off the list. And we got a pretty sweet one, I’m happy to report.

Seattle, Washington

From there we wandered to the Pike Place Market, which was amazing. I wanted to buy everything, but mostly the gorgeous handmade notebooks. Oh my god, they were great. After that we went into the Left Bank Book Collective, which was great and super independent. What a great bookstore run we had.

Seattle, Washington

From there we needed a break from all the walking, and popped into a coffee shop. This was such a nice part of the trip, because it was winding down, and we were tired and just wanted to sit and be together. Gareth got a big thing of pour over coffee, which I had never had before, and the bar area we were at was covered in a huge world map. We looked at the map and planned our future travels, and told stories about places we’ve been, and it was just a really nice moment.

After that we went on a mission to find me a bakery. We stopped into Le Panier, and a few other places, but kind of gave up and took an uber back to Capitol Hill. We finally had Dick’s Drive In burgers, and then on the way back to our place I realized we were close to Bakery Nouveau. I don’t even remember what I got, but I remember it being the most delicious thing in the entire world. It was some kind of chocolatey cake thing, and I still have dreams about it.

From there we walked back to our place, grabbed my bag (which was still there, thankfully), and took the link right from Capitol Hill all the way to the airport. SO easy. And once again, no one checked our ticket. Also, even though we didn’t HAVE to pay, it was SO cheap. It was around $2.50 to get from Capitol Hill, which is fairly north, all the way to the airport. It was just so insanely easy. And while we were waiting for a train, two of the guys who worked security there came over and chatted with us, and they were hilarious and friendly (and obviously a little bored). I can’t get over how much I loved Seattle and the people in it. That is my kind of city, for sure.

(source for feature photo)

PORTLAND

The morning after Gareth arrived, we woke up bright (or not) and early at 4:15 am to make our way to LAX. With the happy discovery that an uber at that time would cost over $40, I decided to book parking last minute for about the same amount, but with the added convenience of having my car nearby. It was really quick and totally doable last minute, which allowed us to check the uber price and decide which way made more sense.

We got to the airport and immediately realized it was the first time we were at an airport together not doing a pick up or horribly depressing drop off. Once we both flew to London on the same day, but with different airlines at different terminals, so we got to Logan, had one last trip to Dunks, said goodbye for about 13 hours, and met back up at Heathrow. So we took a million pictures documenting our first plane journey together, and were probably pretty embarrassing.

The flight was only a bit over 2 hours, and I slept through pretty much all of it. (Though not before taking more pictures.) We arrived in Portland and tried to figure out if it was cheaper to rent a car there and drop it off at Seattle, or to take the train. We wanted a car to get around and not be tied to the train schedule, but it was going to be more than double our train tickets, so we went without. (This was definitely the right call, we were in the center of both cities and never went anywhere that wasn’t in walking distance.) Then we went to the metro at the airport which took us right to the center of the city/right by our hotel. And we started an amazing chain of train rides, where we never needed to buy our tickets. We always did buy them, because I fear authority and cause Gareth is the most moral person I’ve ever met, but not one of our trains in the PNW, including the Amtrak between Portland and Seattle, ever checked our tickets. It was crazy.

We arrived before check in, so we went straight for brunch. I tried to be fancy and celebratory and had a pomegranate mimosa, but it made me SO sleepy, so that was probably a mistake! The food was great and Portland was so cool. After breakfast we went to Powell’s Books, which was AMAZING. We could have spent our entire weekend in that store. Gareth found these old books he loves, and I picked up this book about anthropologists, which was fun though kind of dark and also it was kind of annoyingly predictable where if the main character had just stood up for herself once it might have all been avoided. But anyway! Powell’s was perfect.

After that we went and sat by the waterfront and read. To be honest I was already feeling a little weird, because we were the only people around who weren’t homeless. I know I live in LA where homelessness is a huge problem, but Portland seemed so much worse. It definitely could have been the area we were in (we stayed right in the middle of the city), but it was really shocking and not something I expected. We settled in reading and that was really lovely and great cause, in case this wasn’t already clear, this was our first day together! He had arrived in LA the night before, and it was the first time we’d seen each other since my birthday. So we were all cuddly reading by a tree, when all of a sudden these two groups of men started brawling RIGHT where we were. So we had to jump up and move out of the way, but our bags were still there and we kept having to dart back in to get our stuff. Luckily they all seemed nice (for having a brawl in the park), and tried to give us room/time to get our stuff before carrying on. It was super surreal. We hung around for a bit after that, but it continued to feel pretty sketchy to me, and eventually we decided to just head to the hotel.

Portland was so weird because there was a whole side of it I hadn’t expected at all. The amount of homeless people was shocking. Its crime rate is comparable to Los Angeles, but with WAY less people and in a much smaller city. It also has the most strip clubs per capita in the US. None of this was bad, it was just so different than what I expected! I will say, I’ve been to a lot of places, and definitely some considered relatively dangerous, and Portland was the place I’ve felt the least safe.

We stayed at The Society Hotel, which I definitely recommend. It was walkable to everything and had a great vibe. At this point we were pretty tired/jetlagged and I was (as always) sick, so we took a nap which was glorious. We wanted to go here for dinner, but the wait was over two hours(!), so instead we just walked around and found this SUPER weird, hole in the wall, dungeon looking restaurant. It was such a funny place–they seemed annoyed to have to seat us, our server was so strange, and there was a guy unaffiliated with the restaurant going from table to table doing magic tricks.

Then we went up to the rooftop bar, played cards (I won, obviously), before going to bed relatively early cause Gareth was still on London time and I was still sick.

The next morning we went to the Saturday market which was great. I almost bought a million things, but then didn’t buy any of them, which I was proud of. Gareth had a philly cheesesteak sub, and then another one cause it was SO GOOD. Then we wandered to Voodoo Donuts, but the line was insanely long and neither of us are big donut fans (I know this makes us monsters), so we skipped it. We walked to the train station which was really pretty. It looked like it hadn’t been changed much since it was first built, and I love old, historic buildings.

Our train was an hour late, which was annoying because they never announced that, so everyone got in line, and stayed in line for so long. I’m not sure why, because we all had assigned seats. It seems really illogical we waited in line for so long without just sitting back down, but, uh, we did. I think because it always seemed like the train was just about to pull in. Spoiler alert: it wasn’t.

The train ride was gorgeous. Again no one checked our tickets, though we did have assigned seats, so I guess there’s always the risk the train could be full, but ours definitely wasn’t. About 20 minutes in an alarm started going off, and happened off and on (mostly on) for about an hour while they tried to fix it. Gareth really loved that part of the trip. We mostly read our books and watched the landscape. I really love train rides, and this one was no different. Then we were in Seattle!!

(feature image source)

AIRLINE MILES – WHAT I’M CURRENTLY DOING

As I’ve already posted about, I mainly fund my plane travel through airline miles. I took about a year off of actively trying to get miles, and was just basking in the glow of having accumulated 350,000+. Then the year passed and I continued to be in a long distance relationship, and suddenly my 350,000+ points were down to about 80,000. That’s only enough for one, MAYBE two if I’m really lucky, trips to see G. Or do anything else with my life, like maybe check off more of the countries on my list.

So I dove back in. It also helped that my coworker has gotten obsessed and is using me as a personal mileage guru. So here is what I’m currently doing to boost my miles back up. This should leave me with 155,000 miles by the time I’m done.

First, I signed up for the Citi Gold checking account. 50,000 miles for 1,000 spend over three months? Yes please! We sadly found out I’m targeted for this one, meaning not everyone can sign up just yet. BUT my coworker went in and it sounds like it’ll be open for everyone in April. It’s a great deal and I highly recommend (minus the fact that the checking account website is really ugly and I hate using it).

Then I did the Alaska Airlines card*, which I already wrote about. This was super easy, I closed it as soon as the miles posted to avoid the annual fee, and now I have 25,000 Alaska Airlines miles, which can be used on tons of different airlines, American included. (AND Alaska Air allows stop overs!!)

I just signed up for this, which is 35,000 after 3,000 of spend in three months. Unfortunately this offer has since ended and it’s back down to 25,000, which is still a pretty good deal. I’m using Plastiq to pay my rent, so that will be taken care of pretty quickly, thank you super expensive LA rental market! These points transfer to over 30 airlines, American and Alaska included. And for every 20,000 you transfer to Alaska, you get a 5,000 mile bonus! So I’m going to use the card until I have 40,000 miles, transfer to Alaska, and wind up with 50,000 miles!

Once I finish that off, I’m going to do one more citi card for that is pretty straight forward and worth 30,000 for 1,000 in 90 days.

So, that’s that. The only card where I have to spend more than $1,000 in 90 days is the Starwood Preferred, and I’m using that to pay my rent. 155,000 miles, easy peasy.

*I just found out this card is churnable, meaning about 61 days after I canceled it, I was able to apply again. The deal has since changed and now it’s $1,000 of spend in 3 months, which I’m working on doing now.

EUROPEAN ROAD TRIP?

One of my favorite things to do is plan, in great detail, trips that I’m not actually going to take. Or, to be more accurate, not take in the immediate future. But I will do a RTW trip one day, and when that day comes I know my route and about how long I’ll stay where, and what will be flights and what will be ground transport. And it will be epic. That was what I spent most of my time doing during the hardest months of unemployment. Planning that RTW trip.

Now, with that very important task completed, I’ve moved on to a road trip around Europe. I roadtripped from Boston to Los Angeles in January of 2010 with my best friends from college, and it was one of my favorite life experiences. So when Gareth got a car last year, I started googling and realized just how tiny Europe actually is. It only takes two and a half hours to drive from Brussels to Amsterdam, or five and a half to drive from Berlin to Warsaw, for example.

I don’t know exactly when this road trip will happen, but it’s definitely going to. I think it’ll be about two-two and a half weeks (though only 12 days with a car), and renting a car in Brussels and dropping it off in Tallin 12 days later is about $300.

I feel like that’s how much cars rent for in Los Angeles a day.* The ferry from Tallin to Helsinki is only 19 Euros, and there are flights back to London for as little as $80. This feels so doable and not very expensive, minus the fact that gas prices in Europe are crazy high.

Take a look!

Also as I was planning this I got more adventurous and look at this one! What a beauty! Though I can’t find anywhere that has online information about picking up a car in Calais or Brussels and dropping it off in Belgrade. Or even Budapest.

It’s not happening soon but that doesn’t matter in my crazy head. Planning, to me, is half the fun.

*This felt like a huge exaggeration but I just checked Enterprise and to rent a car from Friday-Monday is about $250!

26TH BIRTHDAY AND A LAST MINUTE TRIP TO LONDON

On February 1st, two important things happened. I turned 26 and I made a crazy, impromptu weekend trip to London. It was also the year anniversary of the Patriots winning the Super Bowl, but who’s counting?

I found out a few weeks before that the weekend of my birthday, which was on a Monday, was a long one. We had Friday and Monday off. I joked to G a few times that I should fly to London, but it was always a joke. That’s 24 hours of flying for one weekend. That’s crazy.

Flash to Thursday morning. I woke up from a really vivid dream that I was in London with my girlfriends, getting ready to go out. Nothing special happened, it just felt SO real. And I woke up devastated it wasn’t. Heartbroken I wasn’t about to meet all my friends at the pub, that Gareth was actually half a world away, already midway through his Thursday.

So. I decided to be crazy. I booked the tickets. (Which I was able to do last minute because of the thousands of airline miles I obsessively collect.)

Also I was late for work, because I needed to make the decision, call the airline, and pack in the time it usually takes for me to just roll out of bed and get in my car (my morning routine, ladies and gentlemen). I spent the whole day buzzing with excitement. We had a birthday party at work for me and the other assistant who stole my birthday minus a year. Then I got a bunch of alerts that the plane was delayed by hours. I tweeted AA and they responded that they needed to find a whole new plane. Then I read that the plane on its way to LA from London had filled with smoke and needed to make an emergency landing. That could have been me! That was the plane I was meant to take on its way back to the UK.

It was mostly fine, I hung out in the admirals club and drank free wine. We boarded five and a half hours late, something I normally wouldn’t care about but that was a decent percentage of my total time in London! The flight was empty. Probably everyone else got on an earlier flight or decided to go home and sleep in their beds instead of wait at the airport until 1am. But not I! And I was rewarded with an empty row and basically a flight attendant all to myself.

London at Night

I landed in London and it was SO good to be back. It felt so surreal. 24 hours before I had no idea I’d be in London the next day. Seeing Gareth had been months away and actually being in London even longer. And suddenly, there I was! Fighting to get my oyster card working and sitting on the tube. It was a really special moment that reminded me not to take anything for granted, that the world is so much smaller than you think. And that Gareth really isn’t as far away as he sometimes feels. I took a picture to capture it. To me it’s a picture of the endless possibilities and the strange turns life takes. To everyone else it probably just looks like a train.

London Tube

Then I was home and everything was amazing. My keys still worked (obviously), the drawer of clothes G convinced me to leave were still there, ready to be worn (though I did raid it on my way back, shhh), and Gareth had flowers, dinner, chocolate, red wine, Prosecco, and a toothbrush ready and waiting for me (read: he is perfect). And all my friends dropped everything and met me at the pub that night. It was amazing. I made my literal dream come true!

The weekend was a lovely mix of seeing friends and getting some great one on one time with G. Both nights all my friends came over, and during the days Gareth and I would stroll around London, eat delicious food, and play our favorite card game. It was really perfect. It was just a glowy haze of fun and feeling so full and happy.

The next morning the three people I hadn’t been able to see yet came over for breakfast (G makes the best breakfast sandwiches in probably the entire world), and then we went on another walk and then for my birthday dinner. Which was amazing. We keep trying to go to this Italian place by the train station, and it keeps being closed on the only night we can go. But instead we went to Olivelli on Lordship Lane, and it was perfect. The food was delicious and we had the most comically grumpy waiter. Also they had this dessert that was the best thing I’ve ever had. It wasn’t even chocolate, and it is RARE I enjoy a chocolate-free dessert. I don’t remember what it was called but the waiter said it was very traditional Sicilian. It looked like cottage cheese. And I want it 100 more times in my life.

My last morning we had breakfast and watched bad TV, which was what we did most mornings this summer. Then he took me to the airport and even though it was sad, because it always is, this time it felt different. This time I knew that he really was just a plane ride away. That we could plan to see each other in May but we could change our minds and be with each other 24 hours later.

It was the perfect weekend. It didn’t feel too rushed, it didn’t feel like a clock was ticking down. It felt stolen, or like the most perfect birthday gift. I’m so incredibly happy I had a vivid dream and a crazy, impulsive reaction to it. I hope I have them more often.

(Feature photo source)

ANYONE UP FOR A TRIP TO ALASKA?

Two of the states I’m the most excited to visit are Alaska and Hawaii. I’m not sure if it’s because they feel so different from the continental US, or if I’m just intrigued by their distance the and perceived challenge of getting to them. I say perceived, because my personal travel philosophy is that you can get anywhere without spending much money if you’re determined enough.

And the trip to Alaska is becoming a real thing! Last week Katie and I applied for this credit card. After spending 2,000, you get 40,000 Alaska Airline miles. Which is more than enough miles for a RT flight from Los Angeles to Anchorage!

Our cards arrived last night and once we spend the minimum the miles should post to our accounts in 2-3 weeks. As of right now we’re aiming for a March trip, because that’s when the Northern lights are the easiest to see from Alaska, and man do we want to see the Northern lights.

I’m a little sad to go while it’s still predominantly dark, especially looking back on how cool the constant light in Iceland was this summer, but if the exchange is the Aurora Borealis, I am so down. Plus I love snow!

Also itching to see the Northern Lights? A big fan of The Proposal? Get the card and Alaska is well within reach for you too!

(source for feature photo)

HOW I AFFORD TRAVEL: CREDIT CARDS AND FREQUENT FLYER MILES

One of the questions I get asked most often is how I can afford to travel as much as I do. The answer is I pretty much refuse to pay for flights, because in my mind, that is an optional fee of which I choose to opt out!

Considering I didn’t travel beyond North America until I was nearly 20, my 16 international trips have all come fairly close together. Below I’ve laid out exactly how I did it–and no, you do not need a ton of money or a rich uncle to afford plane tickets. All you need is some determination, organization, and innovation! If I can do it, you definitely can too!

If you care to read, click below. And please excuse the length, I was as detailed as possible, but didn’t anticipate just how many details there are to include!

The first few trips were relatively discounted because I had a family friend working at Delta. While I was in college, all my trips to London were about $500-600 round trip, and I almost always got to sit in first class (I’m aware this makes me obnoxious). And while first class was amazing, and probably not something I’ll ever experience again, the biggest perk was the flexible dates. I could change my ticket dates at any time and usually pay no fee. But, midway through college this stopped being an option, and while my dream to befriend a kind but lonely airline pilot who wants nothing more than to gift me his Buddy Passes is still very much alive, in the meantime I needed another plan.

After graduating I had rent, utilities, loans, and an entry level job in Los Angeles that paid like they were aware there were thousands of people who would do my job for free. Around this financially tight time, I decided to get a credit card for emergencies and to begin building credit. I got the Premier Card for Southwest and had my first taste of airline miles. Back then I got 50,000 miles for what I believe was a $1,000 spend in 3 months, which I was able to do fairly easily using a mix of actual spend and Amazon payments (where you could transfer funds to a friend and then have them write a check back to you–this is no longer an option). I flew round trip to Boston for $12.00 and realized this could be the way forward. Flying with airline miles also allows the flexibility I had with Buddy Passes, but none of the risk of being the first one booted off an oversold flight (I was once stuck in London for 6 days with a bunch of other Buddy Passes camped out, another time had to fly into Minneapolis and then find a connection back to Boston, and another time I was almost stranded in Guatemala City alone while my travel buddy boarded with the confidence of one who had a real ticket).

Luckily I had a friend who had been collecting airline miles for years who tried to show me the ropes. Unluckily we had different financial backgrounds (read: he was incredibly wealthy), so he bought plane tickets to do what are called “mileage runs,” where he’d buy cheap tickets solely to gain more miles. I don’t know much about this and really can’t help with it, but I can tell you he has millions of miles for the price of a few domestic flights.

I can, however, help with how to reach credit card minimum spends while trying to keep actual spending down. First, you want to transfer all your bills to that card–things like cable/internet, water/electric, car payments, car insurance, phone bill, Netflix, and anything else you subscribe to. Sometimes it’s possible to pay rent this way as well–something to check with your landlord. If that’s a no go, you can pay rent (and make any checks) here, if you’re will to pay 3%. I also use this card for any online purchases–Amazon, food delivery, and was able to put company lunches on it for a few months (something to ask your boss about).

I’m often told by my friends that this credit cards for miles, but they think it feels too risky. I’m constantly questioned about my credit score. The answer is that it’s really not risky if you are organized. I have excel spreadsheets tracking my spending to make sure I hit the minimums, and to remind myself of annual fees so I could consider closing the account or downgrading it to a no fee card. The only other risk comes with overspending–it is incredibly important to pay off your balance every month. It helps your credit score, minimizes the risks of building debt, and allows you to avoid paying interest and negating the savings your are netting by getting miles in the first place.

Second, my credit score is GREAT. Like 800+. When I applied for the apartment I currently live in, my landlord said he’d never had an applicant with such a high score. It’s important to educate yourself on how credit scores are calculated, but overall, having multiple credit cards that you are using responsibly is great for credit. If you’re paying off your balance every month, you are building up your payment history, and your credit utilization (the amount you owe versus your total credit line), both of which positively impact your scores. In fact, the more unused credit you have, the better. For example, if you have one credit card with a $1,000 limit, and you have a $500 balance (50% is utilized), your utilization score will be lower than someone who also owes $500 but has five credit cards with a thousand dollar limit (only 10% utilized). As utilization is 30% of your credit score, this has a high impact.

The two factors that are negatively impacted by multiple credit cards are length of credit history and new credit (credit inquiries). Length of history is an average age of all accounts. This matters, but will eventually work in your favor as your accounts age–so while they may drop you a few points initially, they will eventually start to make your score go up. New credit, or credit inquiries, may also cause you to drop a few points, but fall off your account after two years. I will say from personal experience that though my length of history and credit inquiries are not great, the fact that everything else is perfect outweighs it. And that’s with 10 credit cards. Don’t know your score? Here’s a list of ways to check (my citi cards give me an updated score monthly) and you can also use creditkarma, which is an awesome tool for not only finding out your score, but learning more about your spending habits and your score breakdown.

I’m more than happy to answer any questions–using this method I’ve taken 15 round trip flights (5 international) and only had to pay airline fees and taxes. That much travel would have been completely impossible for me without using miles, and by never having to worry about flights, I was able to take multiple last minute trips and spend money on the places I was going instead of using it all just getting there. It also allowed me to start dating my boyfriend who lives 5,437 miles away.

I promised myself when I was much younger I wouldn’t let anything keep me from my travel dreams, and there are too many potential excuses. Finding the time, finding the courage… this way I knew I’d never need to find the money (at least for flights).

TANGIER, MOROCCO

Tangier was so much nicer than our Marrakech experience, thank god. We went straight to our hostel, dropped our bags off, and felt the weight of the world  literally fall from our shoulders. Tangier’s on the coast, so while it was still about 115 degrees every day, it felt so much more bearable (meaning we could actually step outside).

Our hostel was really cool–I’m confused about my pictures because I feel like I took way more, but I can’t find them! But from what little you can see, not a bad place with not a bad view.

We went to Hotel Continental, which is steeped in artistic history, and was such a cool sight. The whole trip was strange though–we were always the only people wherever we went. Except at the beach! But Hotel Continental is such a tourist destination, it was shocking to find it completely empty. Other than our server we didn’t see one other person in the entire place. Though now it makes sense because I talked to some locals and literally EVERYONE had bailed because of the heat wave. The city was EMPTY.

There was also a cool gift shop run by this guy who knew all the area codes in the major American cities. I got a really cool print, but lost it on the flight home ? I’m trying to contact them to see if I can get a replacement.

Also, we got a bit lost in the medina (it’s SO confusing), and again a bunch of locals offered to help. Katie, annoyed at being lost and constantly harassed and followed, asked directly how much they wanted to be paid to take us to the hotel. This directness I think caught them off guard, and everyone quickly assured us it was a free offer. We did this the rest of the time and it seemed to work really well.

After a cold drink of water a few rounds of golf, we decided it was still too hot, and we’d head for the beach. This was my first time swimming in an Muslim nation, and it was such a strange experience. I wore a one piece and shorts, and was still completely out of place and honestly, the people there were not happy with me. Then I noticed–women were swimming fully clothed. No special swimwear, nothing. Just jumping in with pants and shirts and everything. (This was when we realized our one piece/shorts combo was a no go, and gave up on the beach.) Also, there was a camel! I’m sure this is for some sad, touristy reason, but it was cool to see. And it was the first time I’ve been in the Med!

We had a delicious dinner of couscous and tajine, loaded up on local chocolate (trying the chocolate of every country should be on my 30 before 30), and went back to the hostel and watched a few episodes of Community while showering in cold water every 15 minutes.

After a fitful night of sleep (we were on the roof, which was gorgeous, but the only way to have any air flow was to leave the door open… to the roof deck where our fellow travelers were drinking, smoking, and playing guitar until the wee hours of the night), we started seriously considering our next move. We were supposed to head into Fez for a day, which was averaging about 130 degrees, and then Casablanca (about the same as Tangier), and then back to fly out of Marrakech–all in two days. We went through a lot of options–including, honestly, taking a ferry to Spain and getting ourselves a nice, highly air conditioned, room. Eventually we decided to go to Fez as planned, but fly back to London from there a day early. This meant we only missed Casablanca, which was a shame but we knew with the heat we’d not enjoy it regardless.

Again, here, we kind of failed. Fez was shockingly hot. I wouldn’t say we had really adjusted at all, but it still blew my mind it could be that hot. It was hard to breathe. No one was outside. One local laughed at us for even being there, saying the people of Fez had left for better weather. We literally couldn’t walk more than a block or MAYBE two without having to stop… you might notice these are all excuses leading to the fact that we found the nearest hotel (pretty far outside the city), got lunch, played golf, I tried a beer, and then went straight to the airport. HOURS and HOURS early, we couldn’t even check in. It was just. so. hot.

We arrived back in London and it was freezing, and I promised myself to never complain about the cold British summers again. I am sad about this trip because I really do think we would have loved Morocco in any other circumstance. It almost feels like cheating to say I’ve been, but then I think about how burned (literally) into my mind it is, and just because I didn’t get to do all the tourist stuff, I definitely experienced Morocco.

MARRAKECH, MOROCCO

So… it kills me to say this, but this was probably the worst trip I have ever taken. I had been looking forward to Morocco for YEARS, and it’s sad because I think if we had gone at a different time (not late July/early August), or been AT ALL prepared, it would have been a very different trip.

Katie and I flew back from Iceland on a Thursday and left for Marrakech on Monday morning at around 6:00am. Sometime during the weekend we checked the weather in Morocco and discovered they were in the middle of a heat wave, and that the days were averaging around 120 degrees. Maybe to some of you, that’s nothing, but I die in 80 degree heat. Literally just give up on life and stop functioning. We decided to look at it as an ~experience~ but should have known neither of us were up to it when it looked like our tickets had been messed up and we were both a bit relieved. But alas, Ryan Air come through for once in its business lifetime, and we were on the plane to Marrakech!

Honestly, I was super excited. Like I said, I’d been wanting to go for years, and we were on our way! The plane ride wasn’t great–Katie and I were separated and the WEIRD guy next to me asked way too many inappropriate questions (including if I was carrying a lot of money, WHAT?!), even AFTER I put my earbuds in. If there’s one rule you don’t break, that’s the rule you don’t break (Alias reference, anyone?).

We landed, got through the border in about an hour, and stepped out into it. The heat. I’m going to be very dramatic here, and compare this heat to childbirth–it’s so painful, so unique, once you’re not right in the middle of it, you can’t really comprehend how bad it is. Even now, I can feel myself forgetting, and that is a small mercy. We didn’t have a hostel that night because we were taking an overnight train to Tangier, which meant carrying all our stuff on our backs all day (bad plan). We went to the train station to ensure we got beds with AC, and headed out into the medina. We had a walking map we had wanted to stick to that took us through major attractions and landmarks, but that was miles long and we quickly realized we would die of heat stroke before making it even halfway. It’s strange because the Souk was supposed to be busy and hectic, but the markets and shops were mostly closed–even the locals had all given up in the heat.

Empty Souk in Marrakech

empty Souk

There was one snake charmer in the middle of an otherwise fairly empty square, who was performing an (honestly pretty lame) routine with the snakes. When they came around I gave them a bit of money because I am terrible at that stuff, and they immediately wrapped two snakes around my shoulders. It was not my favorite thing in the world, and then they started insisting I give them more money! No thank you, and please remove your snakes.

Katie and I wandered away, and instantly got lost in the maze of the medina. The problem was anytime we stopped to try to get our bearings, about 4-5 men would surround us insisting they would help–but expecting money. At this point we were dripping sweat, desperate for some water, and really just wanted to be left alone. Eventually we pretended we knew where we were going and set off–only to be followed the entire time by one of the men. We finally got to the tannery (any landmark we knew), but honestly, we were too hot, sick, and lost (and still being followed!), so we just got out of there.

By that point, I’m sad to say, we pretty much gave up on Marrakech. We had three hours before our train was set to leave, it was somehow getting hotter (or at least felt that way), so we found an air conditioned cafe with free wifi close to the train station, Azyr, and settled in. Played a lot of Golf (the card game Katie and I have been playing since we went to Guatemala in 2011), drank some cold smoothies, and waited for the train.

When we got to the train station, however, the train was delayed an hour, and the only air conditioned place was the McDonald’s. And yes, we then camped out in the McDonald’s. I am not ashamed (that’s a lie, I really am).

Eventually, about an hour and a half late, our train arrived. The silver lining was we got to see a really incredible sunset.

Then we were on the train to Tangier. It started fine, great even. The AC, while weak, existed, which was all we really needed at that point. Our cabin had two bunkbeds, me and Katie on the bottom bunks, and a woman who spoke French as well as Arabic, so we could minimally communicate, on top of Katie’s bunk. We made our beds, read a bit, and fell into a deeper sleep than I had expected…

Until 1:30 am. When a much older woman burst in, and started screaming. It was all in Arabic, so I have no idea what she was saying, but she was not happy. A guy who worked for the train came in and in the TINY space between the two bunks, they yelled at each other for about five minutes. Then they left–no explanation, nothing. I was kind of freaked out but let it go and went back to sleep. I’d guess about 20 minutes later, not only were they back, but about four more (train) men had joined, and they were all yelling – loudly, enthusiastically, angrily. Then I heard the woman say Americans about four times, and I had a sinking feeling they were talking about us. I have no idea how she knew we were American. But I quickly realized we were one of the topics of the disagreement. At this point the woman above Katie sat up and started yelling as well, though it became clear quickly that she was defending us. No one was explaining to us what was going on or what we had done, until finally the third woman asked me if I minded moving to the top bunk. Apparently the older woman had bought the top bed but was mad about it, and wanted one of us to move. At this point I was so desperate for it to be over, and still a little confused, so I unmade my bed, moved to the top bunk (WHERE THE AIR CONDITIONING DID NOT REACH), and fell back into a fitful sleep. To be honest, after I found out it was just a difficult older lady (to be clear not so old she couldn’t use a top bunk), it was all fine. There was about a 20 minute period where I was so tired, so disoriented, and so afraid – but I wouldn’t have traded it for a night in a hostel, because none of the hostels we could afford were air conditioned, and the few hours I had on the bottom bunk were worth it. Plus in the morning the mean old lady gave me snacks from UAE, which were actually pretty delicious.

Next up, Tangier!

ICELAND

ICELAND WAS AMAZING. Should I say it again? Iceland was amazing. Really, honestly, truly one of the best places I have ever been.

I met my best friend/roommate Katie there, and after a security snafu on the tarmac that resulted in the plane being delayed over three(!) hours, I landed in Keflavik at 2:00 am (and it was completely light out—so cool/disorienting!). Katie wasn’t due to arrive the next morning until around 7:00 am, so I took a shuttle the hour ride into Reykjavik and passed out.

The next morning, after a JOYOUS reunion with Katie (we hadn’t seen each other since I moved to London a few months before), we struck out into the city. We were staying pretty central in Reykjavik, so everything was well within walking distance which is probably the number one thing I look at when choosing a hostel. This one also happened to be a converted cookie factory, which is also a huge plus.

Bæjarins Beztu hot dog, Iceland

The first day in the city was enough to feel like we had a pretty good grasp of the layout—it was a lot like Guatemala, small enough to feel instantly at home and familiar. I will say Iceland is INSANELY expensive. Like, $20 for bacon and eggs, minimum. So while our hostel and rental car were cheap, the actual day to day costs really balanced it out.

The next day we set off bright and early, and figured out how to take a bus to the tiny airport, where we had a rental car waiting. Isn’t it fun trying other cities’ public transport? I’ve found almost everywhere I’ve been people have been really kind and eager to help (getting off at the wrong bus/train/subway stop is a personal skill of mine).

Then we drove the Golden Circle. This was the best day of our trip by far. Mostly because we planned terribly and packed all our big activities into one 24 hour stretch. But somehow, everything lined up perfectly. The drive was super fun, we listened to so much T-Swift, saw the most gorgeous countryside, and I look back at it and remember feeling so happy, so alive, and so connected to the world.

The first place we went was Kerid, a volcanic crater in southern Iceland. It was, predictably, gorgeous, and the colors were SO vivid.

Kerid crater, Iceland

Then we went to Geysir, which we were lucky enough to see go off about four times, and waterfall Gullfoss, which was huge and beautiful. I know I keep saying everything was gorgeous and beautiful, but LOOK.

Geysir, golden circle, Iceland

Little Geysir, golden circle, Iceland

Gullfoss waterfall, Iceland

Gullfoss waterfall, Iceland

Gullfoss waterfall, Iceland

Then we headed to Pingvellir national park, where we had signed up to go snorkeling in FREEZING water in between the two tectonic plates of North America and Europe. I’d never been snorkeling or scuba diving or any of that before. Honestly large bodies of water kind of freak me out (pretty unavoidable since I grew up on Martha’s Vineyard and have seen Jaws). But this was SO COOL. The water was runoff from the waterfall we had seen earlier, and it took 40 years to filter through the surrounding rock to make it into where we were. The result was completely clear, filtered water, that revealed incredibly vibrant colors below.

Snorkeling in Thingvellir National Park, Iceland

Snorkeling in Thingvellir National Park, Iceland

Katie and I swam relatively fast, finishing before anyone else in our group, because we had to start the two hour journey to the Blue Lagoon! The Blue Lagoon is a natural geothermal hot spring, that has been turned into a spa. It’s definitely touristy—it has a bar in the middle of the water(!), and is fairly expensive even for their cheapest package. However we decided it was something we couldn’t miss, and I’m SO glad we went. It was so relaxing, so WARM after our freezing snorkeling adventures, and was something I’d have really regretted not doing.

Blue Lagoon, Iceland

The next morning we slept in, and explored the city further, and we went to a delicious fish restaurant for dinner—Saegreifinn. We had their (amazing) lobster bisque, some swordfish skewers, and tried whale steak. The whale steak looked like regular steak but tasted incredibly fishy, I really didn’t like it, and couldn’t get over the fact that I was eating whale (edited in 2020 that after further education I would never eat whale now). The place itself was cool and relaxed; it was really crowded, but it only took a few minutes to find a spot in the family style seating. However we were sat next to two men from Texas who were educating the young Australian girls at our table about the truth about 9/11 and Obama’s Kenyan citizenship. They then went on to say it was nice to talk to Australian women because American women were always so irrational and defensive. (I was more than happy to let these men escape the burden of a conversation with an American woman.)

We spent the day eating the Worlds Best hotdogs and playing our epic, 4 year long game of Golf. Then we capped off our trip to a bar that has some (silly) personal significance. It was such a casual evening, and so light out, that even though we had about four drinks over many ours, we were shocked to discovered that we were 1. kind of drunk and 2. it was nearly midnight and our ride to the airport was coming in just over three hours. I honestly don’t know how people handle 24 hours of sunlight–it was so disorienting!

Reykjavik, IcelandReykjavik, Iceland
Bottom line, Iceland was FANTASTIC and I highly recommend everyone try to make the trip. Wow! air has tons of affordable options, if you book far enough out/at the right time of year. I’m already desperate to go back, except maybe next time in the winter to see the Northern Lights!

After that Katie and I went to London for a few days before heading out to Morocco.