Tag: living abroad

Logrono, Spain

SPAIN – ONE MONTH UPDATE

A little over a month ago, I was racing around LA trying to finish a huge to-do list before the flight that would take me first to Zurich, and then on to Madrid. It is crazy to think it’s been a month, and I’m going to be super cliched and say it feels both much longer, and much shorter than that.

Before I came, I got a serious case of cold feet. I started doubting everything, and felt pretty crazy to leave a life I liked/had put in so much work into building. I tried to have realistic expectations, knowing when I first arrived I’d be homesick, that the language barrier would be a problem. I was prepared for it to take some time for me to feel settled.

But amazingly, it took almost no time at all. After a delayed flight and a road trip from Madrid to Logroño with a VERY tired Kristen behind the wheel, I arrived in Logroño at 1:30AM. I parked my car and dragged my suitcase to my apartment (because cars aren’t actually allowed on my street), and stepped into my new home for the first time.

Calle Capitan Gallarza, Logrono

my street

And guys, it was GOOD. My room was basic but pretty. The apartment was bigger than I was expecting, and my roommates were so nice and just as excited as I was to be here. And the city? It was still lit up and beautiful at 1:30 in the morning, and I instantly felt so sure I had made the right decision coming here–a feeling that has never once wavered.

Calle Laurel, Logrono

first time getting pinchos

Gareth came to visit about 5 days after I got here, and we did some pretty cool things. Something so incredible is that we are now in (nearly) the same time zone! That one small detail has changed everything. I can call him when I wake up on my way to work, we can talk at lunch, and before bed. In LA there was a cut off from 2:00pm until maybe 11:00 or midnight where we just couldn’t talk, and that is like half the day! It sucked! Also we are going to see each other basically every two weeks from now until January 8th. What will we even DO with such regularity? Probably get very sick of each other!

My first week here was San Mateo, which is one of the two biggest festivals in La Rioja, the region that Logroño is in. It was really fun, and a great introduction to the city. The highlight was seeing Morat play Cómo Te Atreves. In typical Spanish style they didn’t go on until about 1 am.

There was also a marching band that went by my window hourly for the entire week, which started out as cool and then got dramatically less so as time went on. Now that San Mateo is over, there is a guy who plays gorgeous classical music every night, and it fills the apartment and is SO LOVELY.

I can’t begin to explain how much I love Logroño, and how lucky I feel to have been placed here. Originally, I wanted Madrid so badly I didn’t even tell anyone I had applied to move to Spain, but to Madrid. That was all I could picture. And now, I wouldn’t trade Logroño for anything. It’s small and cheap (my rent is 180 euros a month, for real), it’s not touristy at all, it’s beautiful, it has amazing food/wine, it’s close to all the major northern cities, and the people are so so so nice. There’s a belief that the people in the north are cold, and I don’t know if I’m just not far enough north, or if the stereotype is just completely wrong, but the people here are insanely nice. They never get annoyed with my terrible Spanish. Every family I’ve met for private lessons has told me if I ever need anything, to come to them–and they actually mean it. If I need a ride somewhere, help figuring out how to buy a bus pass, recommendations on the best bodegas, etc–they are so happy to help. I think my Spanish is improving so much because I have no worries about speaking it, even though it’s bad. There is zero judgment, so I feel fine to say or ask whatever I need, sometimes again and again haha, until they understand me.

Logrono, Spain Logrono, Spain Logrono, Spain

I’m taking Spanish lessons four times a week, for five hours total. And my Spanish really is already improving. This month there is a pop up book fair in the park next to my apartment (can I say again how much I love Logroño), and I bought The Little Prince and have been (slowly) reading it. My Spanish is still terrible but for the first time in my life I have hope that I might not be incapable of learning, that maybe by the time I’m done here, I’ll actually be good–or at least somewhere close to good.

For work, I have two jobs, both teaching English. One is at an elementary school, and one is doing private lessons after school’s out. I love the private lessons. They are exhausting, but the kid/s really pay attention and learn, and all my private students are super nice/cute/funny and I love hanging out with them. Plus I get to practice my Spanish with their parents, the super nice people mentioned above. I interviewed at multiple academies and quickly realized finding work in either an academy or through privates lessons would be super easy in Logroño. So I went for the higher paying option, and though it’s only been three weeks, I get the impression it’s a bit more secure than I originally thought. No one has canceled yet.

My school is a bit tougher. I’m supposed to be a language and culture assistant, and because I’m not meant to be teaching alone, no experience or training is required/provided. However, my school (breaks the rules and) puts me in my own classroom with the younger kids, which is REALLY hard, especially on the first day. The kids don’t know who I am. They don’t know enough/any English–and I don’t know enough Spanish–to accomplish ANYTHING, so mostly they run wild while I try not to let them hurt each other. It’s not great but week two has definitely been better than week one, so hopefully as I learn more/they get to know me better, it will keep improving. The teacher for grades 4-6 stays with me like she’s supposed to, and I love those classes because the kids understand me. Plus the entire school treats me like a celebrity–when I walk down the hall every student runs up and says hello and tries to talk to me. It’s pretty cute.

I do miss things from home. Mostly people. Katie. And Mexican food. There’s one Mexican food place in Logroño and guacamole is twice as expensive as a burrito… you can imagine the size of the burrito. I miss my pilates studio and the beach. But I still plan on going back to California eventually, and until then, Logroño is a perfect place to be.

Until next time, or as literally every single person in Logroño says, ‘sta luego!

Doubts about about leaving Los Angeles

Yesterday I did a huge thing. I sent my passport and paperwork in to the Spanish consulate to get a visa to teach English over there for the coming school year. The strange thing is, the closer it gets to being real, the less real it feels. Back in February, I could easily picture myself in Spain. I could casually mention I was moving to Spain in the fall. Now, even though I’m getting my visa and working on Brady’s pet passport, it feels so surreal. Like, at the end of this, I will definitely still be living in LA, working in TV, and coming home to my amazing apartment and living with my best friend/life partner.

The closer it gets, the more I wonder if I’m doing the right thing. I think I am. I think my doubts are just nerves, because one of the ways that I am crazy is that I love adventure but hate change. And I especially hate changing my life now, because I love my life! I love LA, I feel healthier and happier here than I ever have. I love my friends, and my apartment, and even my crappy car. I love the sunshine and the food and the mountains. I also really do love working in television. So… why am I doing thing?!

The main reason comes down to the fact that, if I was handed my dream job tomorrow (TV writer), if that’s all I did with my life, I wouldn’t feel fulfilled. I have all these other things I want to do first. So is it more important for me to get my dream job in my 20s, or spend the rest of my 20s doing amazing, life changing things, and then settle down in one place and really focus on my career? To me, it’s a no brainer. In theory. But when the reality of leaving this life and people I love so much to move somewhere I’ve never been, where they speak a language I don’t know, and do a job I have no experience doing… well. It’s terrifying.

There are obviously a ton of pros as well. I can really dive into Spanish. I can explore so many parts of Europe. I can live on the same continent and (almost) the same time zone as Gareth.

But now I’m in the nitty gritty of selling my car and giving notice on my apartment and, honestly, I’m freaking out. I’ve made some big moves before–when I first moved to London I didn’t know anyone, and it was my first time leaving the states. But that was for college and I was surrounded by other English speaking undergrads. And I moved to LA, but that was a slow motion move that started with a semester out here and never involved having to live anywhere without Katie. Plus, I’m old now, set in my ways, and am used to a comfortable life. Where I have enough money to afford a nice apartment and a pet and anything else that might come up. I’m saying goodbye to a lot of security, and also about 75% of my paycheck. Ugh.

I know LA will always be here, and I want to move back here again some day for sure. I just wish I knew this was the right move at the right time.

The Plan

So to recap, I’m moving to Spain! Very exciting.

But what will I actually be doing in Spain? Great question! I’ve been placed in an elementary school in the city where I’ll be living (Logroño). This is pretty great, because some people have to commute an hour each way to get to/from their schools, or chose to live in a tiny pueblo. I seriously lucked out with my placement, and am pretty relieved I’m not leaving the traffic of LA to move across the world to an even worse commute!

How it works:

For every region other than Madrid, you work 12 hours a week and get paid 700 euros a month (no, that’s not a typo, I am actually losing more that 75% of my monthly salary!). A huge perk is that because you’re only working 12 hours a week, it’s extremely common to have three day weekends, which does not sound too shabby to me. In Madrid, to combat the higher cost of living, they work 16 hours a week and get 1,000 euros a month. Per hour, this is pretty comparable to what other professional Spaniards make. For me, it’s something that results an anxiety attack if I think about it for too long.

That said, almost everyone supplements their income with private lessons or by working at a language academy.

Academies vs private lessons

There are pros and cons to both private lessons and language academies. Private lessons pay more per hour. The going rate in Logroño is 15 euros an hour for one person, 20 for two, and so on. These lessons can be easier to plan, and often just involve playing games with a kid, or having a conversation on a specific topic with an adult. You also have complete control over your schedule. Those awesome three day weekends? You can keep them by just not scheduling classes on Fridays! Have friends coming to visit? Tell your clients you’re unavailable for a week. There’s tons of flexibility. The downside is there is pretty much no security. People can cancel on you at any time, or decide to stop taking lessons, and suddenly your paycheck is tiny again with no notice. Another less than ideal aspect is travel time. If a lesson is a 20 minute walk from your apartment, you’re actually getting 15 euros for an hour and forty minute time commitment. That sounds a lot less appealing than 15 euros an hour.

Language academies are much more of a commitment. In general you’re teaching larger groups, often full classes of people. This usually means more lesson planning, though some academies will do this for you. You get paid less than 15 an hour, but you work a lot more hours, so in general you’ll make much more working at an academy than just by private lessons. You don’t have to worry about someone flaking and not getting paid, because it’s an entire class. A few people can bail, you still get paid. The only real downsides are the lower rate per hour and lack of flexibility.

Also since you technically don’t have a work visa (it’s weird and complicated but we’re technically there on a scholarship and a student visa), working at all is illegal and you’ll have to be paid under the table. Everyone does it, but I guess it is a risk to be aware of.

All that said, I’d LOVE to get a job at an academy, because a steady paycheck is something I’ve really grown to love in my years spent living like I’m some sort of adult.

I have a few interviews set up for when I first arrive, and I’m REALLY hoping one of them works out, cause I’m gonna need some extra money to afford all the traveling I hope to do.

logroño

Calle Laurel, Logrono Spain

Calle Laurel, the heart of Logroño and less than a block away from my piso! Source

I already found an apartment by breaking the cardinal rule of international moves–I said yes without seeing the place in person. That said my research was thorough, I spoke to THREE former tenants (who all lived there different years), and spoke to the landlord more than once to make sure she wasn’t a psycho (she isn’t). Mostly I did this because I’m showing up with Brady and finding an apartment that allows pets was looking like a real nightmare. I checked other cities in Spain and they all seem a lot more happy to have animals, but people in Logroño just does not seem into it. My options were crazy limited, I couldn’t find an affordable/pet friendly hostel/hotel/airbnb to crash at while I looked, and this place seemed pretty great, honestly. I would have been super interested even without the pet friendly pressure I was under. It’s right in the center of Casco Antiguo, or the old quarter of the city. It has big, floor to ceiling windows, and is walking distance to pretty much everywhere. Also the landlord was fine with Brady. Sign me up!

I found roommates already too, one was here in LA and just graduated from UCLA. We’ve had coffee and she seems really nice and really clean, which is great. A girl from New England is taking the last bedroom, which is great cause maybe I can get her to care about the Patriots with me!

Having an apartment means that when I arrive in a few weeks, I’ll have a place to go right away. I can get settled in from the start, get to know my neighborhood, and focus on other stressful things, like opening a bank account, getting my foreigner identification card, and figuring out health insurance! Also San Mateo* will start a few days after I get there, so I think I’ll have a lot of Rioja wine sampling to do.

In the meantime I have a million things to do before I go. Mainly sell my car. Also figure out what I’m doing with all my possessions I’m not planning on taking to Spain. And finish Brady’s pet passport. And change all my addresses and tell all my banks. There’s a lot. That said, I got an international driving permit on Saturday. Now I just have to learn to drive stick…

I’ll post about the progress, and how I got my visa and the steps I’m taking to get Brady his. And in 15 days time, I’ll be writing to you from Logroño.

*I am fairly certain that video takes place on my future street. RIGHT in the middle of everything, which is great because I’m naturally lazy and don’t really go to social events that take much effort. I can probably swing this.

Big News

I have a big announcement. It’s one that’s been SO HARD to keep quiet, but that I’ve been waiting to write until about it was finally, officially real. Ready?

I’m moving to Spain in exactly 16 days.

Crazy.

I applied back in February, and did so without much thought. No one was sure it was a real thing. I wasn’t sure it was a real thing. And yet here we are.

As much as I love Los Angeles, and my friends, and my career, I never meant to settle down and stay. Not yet. There are about 195 other countries I want to see first, and some languages I’d like to learn, and a few other things that are pretty important for me to feel like I’m living the best life I can.

So on a whim I decided to make a move. It’s kind of crazy how little thought I put into it. A few friends were teaching in Vietnam, so I decided to do that. I told one of my closest friends, just to see how it felt to say it out loud, and she told me I was insane and if I was moving anywhere, it shouldn’t be farther away from Gareth. I think it was even her who suggested Spain. She is a very wise woman.

Spain meant Gareth was a two hour plane ride away. Two hours. Right now, if I’m lucky enough to find a direct flight, it’s still around twelve. I could fly on a budget airline and be in London, or any other European city, for about $100 return. Can you imagine?

Then I found the ministry’s Auxiliares de Conversación program. I’d looked into teaching in Spain back in college, when I was trying to figure out what I wanted to do with the gap year between school and work I had so planned on taking. I had only heard of CIEE, which charges a few thousand dollars to do the same exact thing as the ministry. (Ministry is  free.) I filled out my application that day. I had to wait a bit for things like my transcript and letter of recommendation, but I think the time from first hearing about it until completed application was about six days. I was ready.

I’m going to make a post with the timeline, but my readiness meant nothing, and what I actually did was wait around for a few months before hearing anything. Not exactly easy, cause patience is hard, but finally I found out I’d been placed in La Rioja, and then a few weeks later that my school was in Logroño, the capital of the region.

You guys, Logroño sounds amazing. I’m sure you’ve heard of Rioja wine–this is where it’s from. There are dozens of wineries in the region, and twice a year they have big wine festivals. San Mateo, the wine harvest festival, is in September. There are fireworks and parades every day, and fountains of wine, and possibly a giant food fight? Not sure but am very excited to find out.

And then in June, there is San Pedro, a wine battle (Batalla del Vino). Which is just what it sounds like. You wear all white and fill up water guns and have a wine war. A WINE WAR.

source

Logroño was also named the gastronomic capital of Spain a few years back, and the food is meant to be delicious. It’s not a touristy city, so it’s crazy cheap (like under $200 in rent) and English isn’t nearly as prevalent as in Madrid or Barcelona. It’s also gorgeous and right in the middle of northern Spain, which is overlooked for reasons I don’t understand. I’ll show you soon, but it’s beautiful up there.

I’ll be teaching English for 12 hours a week at an elementary school, and should have Fridays off to travel. I’m going to try to take Spanish lessons 3-4 times a week, because half the purpose of this trip is to get conversational/fluent. I’m definitely going to look for work doing private lessons to help beef up my (teeny, tiny) paycheck, but will hopefully be traveling at least once every few weeks to meet Gareth in whatever city sounds good that month. Basically, life is about to get PRETTY GREAT.

For now I’m in LA. And that’s wonderful because I really do love LA. It’s gorgeous, we all know the weather is perfect, the food is delicious, and everyone here has a dream and ambition and passion, which is a pretty cool community to belong to. Will I come back? I hope so. I think. I’m not totally sure what comes next after this–hopefully spending some time seeing parts of the world with Gareth. Regardless, right now it feels like anything is possible. Which is kind of the best feeling I can imagine. I’m so excited for the future, and though I’ve had my doubts (believe me), I feel really ready for this.

Also just to be clear, Brady? He’s coming with me.

Spain, here we come!